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Thread: Altec 353A Integrated Amp

  1. #1
    Inactive Member carbkit's Avatar
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    I need some clarification on the Altec 353A Integrated Amplifier. It's a stereo tube amp using 4 6L6GC outputs. My question is - what is the rms output per channel at 8 ohms? The 6L6GC tubes have an output of 19 to 35 watts depending on the manufacturer. The specs on the advertisement below says 50watts rms.
    http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Altec/1959-d.jpg

    http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Altec/1959-e.jpg

    I don't get it.
    Question 2. Can I use the higher output (35watt) tubes without danger to the amp - like stuff melting, etc.? Tubes like the 7581A?
    Question 3. Which 6L6GC output tubes will give me the best sound? I have Altec model 18s, and Heathkit AS-21s.

  2. #2
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    Altec 353A Integrated Amp


    Old Guy's Avatar
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    The 50 watts RMS is likely 25 per channel.

    This is, I believe Pre FTC. The FTC ruled amps had to be rated per channel, and under what conditions.

    People were claiming 5 watt per channel amps to be "100 watt".

    35 per channel is possible, at higher distortion, with 6l6's. Most real Hi-Fi amps are probably 20-25.

  3. #3
    Senior Hostboard Member tomt's Avatar
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    http://cgi.ebay.com/Altec-353A-Stere...QQcmdZViewItem
    Altec 353A Stereo Ampifier With Monitor & 2 Speakers - (eBay item 150157178062 end time Sep-08-07 14:09:23 PDT)

    also check out the '359a' stereoplex

  4. #4
    Senior Hostboard Member martyh45's Avatar
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    GE 7027 and Genalex KT66 will work for sure as subs. RCA 6l6GCs are nice tubes and may be the least expensive of the lot but still cost dearly for matched sets. One thing to note though, you will not get any more power from the amp by plugging in different tubes. Output power is determined by the operating point and you will not change it much unless you are willing to do major modifications.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    50W rms stereo program power = 25W/ch rms, a comfortable range for 6L6GCs.

    7027s are only a direct substitute in some applications, depending on whether or not one side of the grid is grounded. Investigate chassis wiring and both tube pinouts first.

    I'll buy a steak dinner if you can identify equivalent-condition 6L6GCs by brand merely by listening to them... forums

  6. #6
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    Originally posted by bfish:
    ...7027s are only a direct substitute in some applications, depending on whether or not one side of the grid is grounded...
    <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Correction-strike grid, insert heater. A pre-coffee under-bias glitch on my part...

  7. #7
    Senior Hostboard Member martyh45's Avatar
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    bfish,

    Re: 7027
    I should have typed 7027-A. But right you are, I forgot about the extra connections for the grids. I am not aware of any special problems with grounding one side of the heaters though.

    Re: Telling the difference between tubes.

    I don?t go in for much of the tweak stuff like cables, power cords etc. but I believe I can hear a difference between tube brands. Other people believe that they can too including musicians who have driven the price of these tubes up. I have never taken part in or even read about a double blind test comparing 6l6 types for sound so there is a distinct possibility that I am wrong. That doesn?t trouble me much as I have been told many times that tube amps can?t sound better than solid state, alnico speakers can?t sound better than ceramics, that I can?t hear a difference between turntables and so on. I listen for the pleasure of it and if I derive some of that pleasure through self delusion then so be it.

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